6. "Umm, yea it feels like you're trying to hold on with your feet " In response to In response to 2
That's why having your feet planted correctly is so important because the board is bigger than you. You have to be situated in a way that you can navigate it.
Well when your paddling out, your arms can get really tired. And you're on your stomach or your knees. When a wave comes you literally have to pop up or jump up so that you can catch the momentum of the wave before it's gone. It feels similar to doing a burpee.